Agreement was made to sail into the ocean at 12 midday on a whale watching tour. The boat with the three of us and about 40 more drove speedily to where the mammals were resting on their migration to the south. They were ‘logging’ which means lounging around with their humps visible. We saw various pairs of mother-infant dyads, playing, blowing and jumping. Utterly amazing. Claire and I propped each other up at one point as the distance between these enormous, graceful creatures became smaller. Love this. Cloudy Bay bubbles, iced Hahn beer and antipasto seemed so perfect on both nights. Catching up needs sustenance!